Bari is the capital of the region of Puglia in the heel of bootshaped Italy on the Adriatic Sea. One of the largest ports in the southern Adriatic, it developed from a small Greek province into a main gateway to the Balkans and the Middle East for Romans, Byzantians, Saracens and Normans alike. Nowadays it combines Eastern Mediterranean flair with the vibe of a culturally diverse University town.
Bari's old town, Bari vecchia, is situated on a headland between the new port in the West and the old port in the East, where yachts and fishing boats are moored.
Bari vecchia is a warren of small alleyways and backyards, which are fun to explore. It is very much a lived in place: coulourful plant pots adorn old wooden doorways, washing is hung out to dry over small balconies. Bikes and motorbikes are parked outside on the small roads. Coming from the new port, you can get to the elevated old town via steps from the Corso Antonio De Tillio.
The Museo Archeologico die Santa Scolastica is situated in the Northeast of the headland. From the ramparts of the old town walls, the muraglia, there is a sweeping view over the old port of Bari and the new town in the East and the old town behind you. If you meander into the heart of the old town via Santa Scolastica and then turn south in the direction of Piazza di San Nicola, you will reach the Basilica di San Nicola, with its bell tower dominating the panorama of the old town.
The basilica houses the remains of Saint Nicolas (270-343), the early Christian bishop from MYra in Turkey, who served as a model for the mythical figufre of Santa Clause. Apparently, Saint Nicholas had a habit of giving gifts in secrets and performed miracles. There are very few reliable sources about the facts of his life. However, every year at the beginning of May a big procession, the Festa di San Nicola, takes place in his honour where his icon is taken out to sea, accompanied by a fleet of small boats. If you want to learn more about the man and the myth, you should visit the nearby Museo Nicolaino
Turning southwest from here one reaches the Cattedrale di San Sabino, with foundations from the 11th century. It was expanded from 1170–1178 by the Normans. The museum in the crypt of the cathedral, the Museo del Succorpo della Cattedrale, houses the remains of an old Roman Road from the 2nd ct., as well as walls and floor mosaics from a byzantine church.
From the cathedral head west onto the Piazza Federico II di Sveia, where you will see the walls of the monumental stronghold Swabian Castle, Castello Svevo, which was built by the Norman king Roger I. in 1131, and expanded by Frederik of Swabia in 1240. In the 16th century Isabella of Aragon added two further bastions.
Now is the time to discover one of Bari's specialties - the pasta called orecchiette. The name means "ears", because their shape resembles an ear. Head south into the small alleyway of Arco Basso and you will spot Italian women sitting in front of their shops, demonstrateing,how the pasta is formed. They will sell their products nicely packaged to passing tourists. Dishes with orecchiette are served in many of the old town restaurants.
Heading east again, one reaches the Piazza Mercantile, which really comes alive after sunset. Continue a little bit further to the town walls (muraglia) and look down towards the old port.
On the Molo San Nicola, the fishmarket takes place in the mornings. In the shadow of the neoclassical Theatro Margherita, fresh oysters and sea urchins are offered raw to passers by. Octopuses are being beaten on stones, to soften their flesh. If you do not mind getting up at sunrise, it is a spectacle not to be missed.
Behind the Teatro Margherita begins the main thoroughfare Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which forms the border with the new town of Bari, called Murratiano. Built in the 18th and 19th centuries under the reign of Joachim Murat, short-lived king of Naples from 1808 to 1815, it surprises with big boulevards lined by modern shops, cafés and restaurant as well as big piazzas. It is laid out in a grid pattern and easy to navigate. On the Corso Cavour the opera house Teatro Petruzzelli, built in 1903, plays host to the renowned film International Film Festival of Bari, Bifest (www.bifest.it/).
Infos: www.italia.it/en/puglia
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